lHaving been to the Deer and Lang caves, our next scheduled stop was to see the Clearwater and Wind Caves. This required a boat trip upriver and we tried our darnedest to arrange it the night before (except the incompetent staff at the Royal Mulu were too busy trying to sing to help guests...see report) but was unsuccessful. So right after breakfast, we headed back to the ranger station to book boats and guides.
Getting to the caves this time was easy. A lovely 20min boat ride and we were there. I found that not having to lug my gear for 4km and sweating like a madman definitely helped in taking photos. Remember what I said about exact timings, we got there by 9.00am (Our boat skipped the tourist village, but our other boat didn't), but had to wait till 10.30am to proceed into the caves. We waited and waited and waited and waited with no information forthcoming from the guide. Oh well, lesson learnt. "If you take 2 boats, either both should stop or skip the 'tourist' village'"
The Wind cave was quite nice, lovely formations of stalagmites and stalactites with delicate carvings that did not look naturally made. The Clearwater cave on the other hand, was spectacular. There's a river running through it and it was beautiful. We later learnt that there was a 'beginners' adventure trek from within the Clearwater cave following along the river bed to an alternate exit. Of course our wonderful tourguide did NOT mention that the trek only took place once a day, at 1230pm (it was about 12pm when we finished the caves).
We were so excited about the adventure trek that we went back to ranger station to arrange for one the next morning(we had half a day before our flight out). Remember what I said about the strict expedition timings? Well, turns out the adventure trek (named 'turtle caves') was listed in the brochure with a 1230pm time). But the nice lady at the ranger station said it was 'no problem' and to show up next day at 8am and she'll arrange everything for us. (traveller tip 271: If someone in Malaysia tells you 'no problem, come tomorrow morning', he/she is lying to you to get you to go away. Ask for a name and the promise written down in black and white)
I digress, that's Day 4. Anyway, there's a beautiful pool right at the foot of Clearwater cave, and some of us elected to grab a quick swim. The water was deliciously cold and wonderfully refreshing after a morning of stuffy caves. Taking a dip is a must during the little rest stop between Wind Cave and Clearwater.
Lunch was had back at the Park canteen. Simple food. Cheap and filling. No culinary awards, but no complaints.
Post-lunch, we elected to head down to the Paku 'Waterfalls' before swinging back to the Batstands for another shot at seeing the bat swarms. The Paku 'Waterfalls' is advertised as 1.3km away from the main Deer cave trail (The entrance is about 1km from the ranger station). We lost Rickey on this mission, so the 7 of us started the trek down to the 'waterfalls'. It's not 1.3km if anyone's wondering, more like 2+km. Although this walk was much nicer as it felt more like jungle trekking rather than boardwalk-walking. The path was clearly defined by large river stones, but we had our shoes on honest-to-goodness mud.
The waterfall was as majestic as the walk was short (the walk was not short, and the waterfall was hardly majestic). The park authority should change the name to 'Paku waterdrizzlingfromholeinrock', that would have been a more accurate description. I can't believe that one of the staff in the ranger station suggested we go there. Then again, lying seems to be a common theme of this trip.
The walk back though was fun. It rained (much harder than the water flowing from the 'waterfall'), and we had barely started our trek back when the droplets became bucketlets. This was real adventure trekking, sloshing through the mud, through the jungle. FUN!!! Pity the rain meant that the bats would stay indoors, so we headed back to hotel.
We reached the ranger station by 4.30 but did not reach the hotel till 5.45. "but wait, isn't the park 5mins from the hotel?", I'm glad you noticed kind reader. Let's just chalk it up to another one of the hotel's incompentencies. And I need to mention that they didn't have umbrellas to escort us from the POW lorry to the lobby/rooms. "Budget Hotel?" is your next question? Nope... 400rm a night. Actually now that I think about it, the Royal Mulu reminds me a lot of Singapore govt. 1st world prices, 4th class service.
We made it to dinner by 6 and got out of there by 8. We had to avoid the cultural show. Mission accomplished. Beer and Minimum in the lounge.
Getting to the caves this time was easy. A lovely 20min boat ride and we were there. I found that not having to lug my gear for 4km and sweating like a madman definitely helped in taking photos. Remember what I said about exact timings, we got there by 9.00am (Our boat skipped the tourist village, but our other boat didn't), but had to wait till 10.30am to proceed into the caves. We waited and waited and waited and waited with no information forthcoming from the guide. Oh well, lesson learnt. "If you take 2 boats, either both should stop or skip the 'tourist' village'"
The Wind cave was quite nice, lovely formations of stalagmites and stalactites with delicate carvings that did not look naturally made. The Clearwater cave on the other hand, was spectacular. There's a river running through it and it was beautiful. We later learnt that there was a 'beginners' adventure trek from within the Clearwater cave following along the river bed to an alternate exit. Of course our wonderful tourguide did NOT mention that the trek only took place once a day, at 1230pm (it was about 12pm when we finished the caves).
We were so excited about the adventure trek that we went back to ranger station to arrange for one the next morning(we had half a day before our flight out). Remember what I said about the strict expedition timings? Well, turns out the adventure trek (named 'turtle caves') was listed in the brochure with a 1230pm time). But the nice lady at the ranger station said it was 'no problem' and to show up next day at 8am and she'll arrange everything for us. (traveller tip 271: If someone in Malaysia tells you 'no problem, come tomorrow morning', he/she is lying to you to get you to go away. Ask for a name and the promise written down in black and white)
I digress, that's Day 4. Anyway, there's a beautiful pool right at the foot of Clearwater cave, and some of us elected to grab a quick swim. The water was deliciously cold and wonderfully refreshing after a morning of stuffy caves. Taking a dip is a must during the little rest stop between Wind Cave and Clearwater.
Lunch was had back at the Park canteen. Simple food. Cheap and filling. No culinary awards, but no complaints.
Post-lunch, we elected to head down to the Paku 'Waterfalls' before swinging back to the Batstands for another shot at seeing the bat swarms. The Paku 'Waterfalls' is advertised as 1.3km away from the main Deer cave trail (The entrance is about 1km from the ranger station). We lost Rickey on this mission, so the 7 of us started the trek down to the 'waterfalls'. It's not 1.3km if anyone's wondering, more like 2+km. Although this walk was much nicer as it felt more like jungle trekking rather than boardwalk-walking. The path was clearly defined by large river stones, but we had our shoes on honest-to-goodness mud.
The waterfall was as majestic as the walk was short (the walk was not short, and the waterfall was hardly majestic). The park authority should change the name to 'Paku waterdrizzlingfromholeinrock', that would have been a more accurate description. I can't believe that one of the staff in the ranger station suggested we go there. Then again, lying seems to be a common theme of this trip.
The walk back though was fun. It rained (much harder than the water flowing from the 'waterfall'), and we had barely started our trek back when the droplets became bucketlets. This was real adventure trekking, sloshing through the mud, through the jungle. FUN!!! Pity the rain meant that the bats would stay indoors, so we headed back to hotel.
We reached the ranger station by 4.30 but did not reach the hotel till 5.45. "but wait, isn't the park 5mins from the hotel?", I'm glad you noticed kind reader. Let's just chalk it up to another one of the hotel's incompentencies. And I need to mention that they didn't have umbrellas to escort us from the POW lorry to the lobby/rooms. "Budget Hotel?" is your next question? Nope... 400rm a night. Actually now that I think about it, the Royal Mulu reminds me a lot of Singapore govt. 1st world prices, 4th class service.
We made it to dinner by 6 and got out of there by 8. We had to avoid the cultural show. Mission accomplished. Beer and Minimum in the lounge.
Mission 2: Wind and Clearwater Caves
Obligatory boat photo for travel blog
The crew that let us down
The first boat
The 2nd boat finally arrives.
Entrance to Wind Cave
Mission to the Clearwater Cave
Mission 3: To the Paku 'Waterfalls'
Mission accomplished... now where is that 'waterfall' again?
We had to pay extra for the room with the stick insect.
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