Our final mission was to head out to Saratok to participate in the Iban Rice Wine Festival. Mick had arranged to rent a van from the car rental service at the airport and they loaned us a nice one. The van was very new, with lots of power and comfortable seats. Everything worked well, brakes stopped on a dime and the airconditioning kept us cool. I was the designated driver as I was the only one with the license and experience in handling a large manual vehicle.
It was a long drive, estimated at 5 hours, we made it in 4 and a half, including a rest stop at the junction of Sri Aman and Betong. The roads were mostly 2 lane 'highways' and we were lucky that we did not get caught behind any slow moving trucks or traffic jams.
The longhouse certainly did not look like anything I had imagined. I had previously imagined a long wooden house built on stilts, with ladders going up at either end. Something like what I saw in the Kuching Museum or on TV. The longhouse we visited was entirely modern. In fact when you arrive, you'd think it was just a row of detached houses. It's only when you enter that you see they kept the common 'corridor/meeting space/hangout area' that gives the longhouse its name. Each family resides in a unit within the main structure (actually, it reminds me a lot of 3rm HDB flats, except that everything is open and friendly)
Our host was Yen's father-in-law, who happened to be aa ex-minister of Sarawak. To meet the man, you could not imagine that he is one of the most powerful men in Sarawak. He was wonderfully friendly, hospitable and humble. He did not need to posture or show off his power, yet you could see everyone else defer to him. It was an enlightening experience.
The Iban people are an immensely gracious and generous hosts. The moment we arrived, we were warmly greeted. Not just a 'hello' or head-nod. Strangers would come up to us and shake our hands and wish us well. Later, these same folks would come around with bottles of booze to share. I have never felt a warmer welcome in all my travels.
One thing in particular I was very happy about. The rites and rituals that we were invited to participate in were not done for 'tourists'. These were festivities that they would have performed regardless if we were present or not. Contrary to the faux 'cultural show' at the Royal Mulu, this was something real and heartfelt. I did not feel uncomfortable at all during any of the proceedings. I despise 'tourist' shows (ironic since I am a tourist).
After we watched the 'ghost' ritual, we took a drive down to the river to grab a quick swim before dinner (also to get away from the folks with bottles of hooch. If a guy comes up to you and pours you a glass, you have to down it, no protests. We knew we had a long night of drinking ahead, so we wisely avoided pre-dinner drinks)
Dinner was a community affair. A row of tables was laid out, and each family brings something to it, potluck style. As the Ibans are christians, there was pork, and lots of it. The entire longhouse gathers around the table and a prayer is said before we tuck in.
After dinner, the men start assembling the sound system. Every longhouse has one. A TV set, a VCD player, a mixer and a couple of large speakers. All festivities are centered around the PA system. The Iban version of 'dance revolution' is to show the dance on the TV while they dance to it. A dance version of Karaoke if you will.
Since midnight was a couple of hours away, we decided to visit a neighbouring longhouse and check out their party. Turns out this one was a little more somber than the one we came from. They were having a 'remembrance' type ceremony. All the elder men would sit in a circle and recite poems or snippets of tribal history. Of course only one man could speak at one time, and the man holding the rooster was the chosen speaker.
When we got back to our host longhouse, the party was in full swing. Everyone was out getting ready for midnight to strike. Kids were playing with firecrackers in the courtyard, adults were gathered around the 'stage' taking turns to dance/perform or play in the band. It was awesome. I'm guessing if one went to a 'tourist-sanctioned' village, one would be seeing a half-naked tribesman hopping around with a spear and shield. Meanwhile, we got to see the real thing.
The Gawai festival is actually on June 1 (Trivia: Our host was the man who created this official holiday for the Iban.), and they celebrate it much like New Year or Christmas. There's a countdown to the actual day, then the party goes up a notch after midnight. Everyone goes around shaking hands and wishing each other, then the music goes up, the drinks starting flowing (more than before), till the last person standing leaves the room, or passes out on the mats. (Rumour has it that Horfun and Ripken outlasted everyone on the dance floor. I gave up about 3am)
It was a great party. One of the best I've ever been to. I would love to return next year just for it.
Our first and only reststop (The white van is our rental)
The river that runs through Saratok
Lunchtime at Saratok
Chinese temple at Saratok
Iban flag flying in front of the longhouse
Doesn't look like a longhouse does it.
The common corridor along the longhouse
The men cutting up the betal nut
The gongs on the ground are for the 'ghost' ceremony
This dude's been drinking since 6am. That's not beer he's drinking, its rice wine.
Drunk dude makes a pass at Rickey. This was after he proposed to Horfun (Marriage proposals - Horfun 1 : Ripken 0)
The Swimming hole
Me grabbing a nap while the boys swim (Horfun's photo)
The 3rd Annual LOD trip Album Cover (Horfun's photo)
Our host's home.
Ripken and Boat practicing for the party
Sunset over the longhouse
Photographing the photographer
Center: Dato' Sri Edmund, our host
The LOD crew
The dinner spread
Saying Grace
Glutenous rice steamed in bamboo
This is how they clear the plates, since there are so many of them.
Photographing the photographer photographing the photographer
Yen and his kid, Sulimir
Little Sulimir
Horfun was adopted by great-grandma. I think she's already arranged a marriage for horfun.
Everyone's birthday was celebrated
along with mother's day and father's day. All 3 combined into 1 party.
The man who holdeth the rooster speaketh.
MIDNIGHT!!! HAPPY GAWAI EVERYONE!!!
Kelson found a new friend. (Dancing with hot chicks -- Kelson 1 : Ripken 0)
The LOD crew goes to the mattresses.
It was a long drive, estimated at 5 hours, we made it in 4 and a half, including a rest stop at the junction of Sri Aman and Betong. The roads were mostly 2 lane 'highways' and we were lucky that we did not get caught behind any slow moving trucks or traffic jams.
The longhouse certainly did not look like anything I had imagined. I had previously imagined a long wooden house built on stilts, with ladders going up at either end. Something like what I saw in the Kuching Museum or on TV. The longhouse we visited was entirely modern. In fact when you arrive, you'd think it was just a row of detached houses. It's only when you enter that you see they kept the common 'corridor/meeting space/hangout area' that gives the longhouse its name. Each family resides in a unit within the main structure (actually, it reminds me a lot of 3rm HDB flats, except that everything is open and friendly)
Our host was Yen's father-in-law, who happened to be aa ex-minister of Sarawak. To meet the man, you could not imagine that he is one of the most powerful men in Sarawak. He was wonderfully friendly, hospitable and humble. He did not need to posture or show off his power, yet you could see everyone else defer to him. It was an enlightening experience.
The Iban people are an immensely gracious and generous hosts. The moment we arrived, we were warmly greeted. Not just a 'hello' or head-nod. Strangers would come up to us and shake our hands and wish us well. Later, these same folks would come around with bottles of booze to share. I have never felt a warmer welcome in all my travels.
One thing in particular I was very happy about. The rites and rituals that we were invited to participate in were not done for 'tourists'. These were festivities that they would have performed regardless if we were present or not. Contrary to the faux 'cultural show' at the Royal Mulu, this was something real and heartfelt. I did not feel uncomfortable at all during any of the proceedings. I despise 'tourist' shows (ironic since I am a tourist).
After we watched the 'ghost' ritual, we took a drive down to the river to grab a quick swim before dinner (also to get away from the folks with bottles of hooch. If a guy comes up to you and pours you a glass, you have to down it, no protests. We knew we had a long night of drinking ahead, so we wisely avoided pre-dinner drinks)
Dinner was a community affair. A row of tables was laid out, and each family brings something to it, potluck style. As the Ibans are christians, there was pork, and lots of it. The entire longhouse gathers around the table and a prayer is said before we tuck in.
After dinner, the men start assembling the sound system. Every longhouse has one. A TV set, a VCD player, a mixer and a couple of large speakers. All festivities are centered around the PA system. The Iban version of 'dance revolution' is to show the dance on the TV while they dance to it. A dance version of Karaoke if you will.
Since midnight was a couple of hours away, we decided to visit a neighbouring longhouse and check out their party. Turns out this one was a little more somber than the one we came from. They were having a 'remembrance' type ceremony. All the elder men would sit in a circle and recite poems or snippets of tribal history. Of course only one man could speak at one time, and the man holding the rooster was the chosen speaker.
When we got back to our host longhouse, the party was in full swing. Everyone was out getting ready for midnight to strike. Kids were playing with firecrackers in the courtyard, adults were gathered around the 'stage' taking turns to dance/perform or play in the band. It was awesome. I'm guessing if one went to a 'tourist-sanctioned' village, one would be seeing a half-naked tribesman hopping around with a spear and shield. Meanwhile, we got to see the real thing.
The Gawai festival is actually on June 1 (Trivia: Our host was the man who created this official holiday for the Iban.), and they celebrate it much like New Year or Christmas. There's a countdown to the actual day, then the party goes up a notch after midnight. Everyone goes around shaking hands and wishing each other, then the music goes up, the drinks starting flowing (more than before), till the last person standing leaves the room, or passes out on the mats. (Rumour has it that Horfun and Ripken outlasted everyone on the dance floor. I gave up about 3am)
It was a great party. One of the best I've ever been to. I would love to return next year just for it.
Our first and only reststop (The white van is our rental)
The river that runs through Saratok
Lunchtime at Saratok
Chinese temple at Saratok
Iban flag flying in front of the longhouse
Doesn't look like a longhouse does it.
The common corridor along the longhouse
The men cutting up the betal nut
The gongs on the ground are for the 'ghost' ceremony
This dude's been drinking since 6am. That's not beer he's drinking, its rice wine.
Drunk dude makes a pass at Rickey. This was after he proposed to Horfun (Marriage proposals - Horfun 1 : Ripken 0)
The Swimming hole
Me grabbing a nap while the boys swim (Horfun's photo)
The 3rd Annual LOD trip Album Cover (Horfun's photo)
Our host's home.
Ripken and Boat practicing for the party
Sunset over the longhouse
Photographing the photographer
Center: Dato' Sri Edmund, our host
The LOD crew
The dinner spread
Saying Grace
Glutenous rice steamed in bamboo
This is how they clear the plates, since there are so many of them.
Photographing the photographer photographing the photographer
Yen and his kid, Sulimir
Little Sulimir
Horfun was adopted by great-grandma. I think she's already arranged a marriage for horfun.
Everyone's birthday was celebrated
along with mother's day and father's day. All 3 combined into 1 party.
The man who holdeth the rooster speaketh.
MIDNIGHT!!! HAPPY GAWAI EVERYONE!!!
Kelson found a new friend. (Dancing with hot chicks -- Kelson 1 : Ripken 0)
This is how the LOD party.
The LOD crew goes to the mattresses.
1 comment:
Hello,
I just wanted to say that seeing this sort of documentation of a longhouse and people I know quite well is interestingly bizarre... my mom is Joyce's mom's sister (we live in the States) and I've been over there several times; I met Pat and Mike at Yen and Jui's wedding reception and was also there last year. It just totally blows my mind to see this travel blog. I'm tickled pink by it and I'm glad you fellows had a good time, looks like! Wonderful photos.
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